Royal Ploughing Ceremony Day
Date : 11 May 2009
Venue : Sanam Luang, Bangkok

Signs of the times. A Brahmin ceremony seeks a sign to guide the nation to a healthy harvest. Economists have their own ideas on how 2009 will pan out. They take stock of the rice crop, the inbound flow of tourism and fluctuations on the foreign exchange market to provide a peep at where we might be heading. There is a much more colourful way to reach the same conclusions and it is at the heart of a century old custom, the annual Ploughing Ceremony.

Held at on the spacious grounds of Sanam Luang against the backdrop of imposing government buildings and the Grand Palace, this ancient Brahmin ceremony takes place 9 May at an auspicious time set even to the seconds hand of the clock by custodians of this custom.

Having their origins in India, the rites of the Ploughing Ceremony can be witnessed in Myanmar, Thailand and Cambodia.

Once the Brahmin priests have set the auspicious time after consulting the stars and interpreting omens, the stage is set for Bangkok to turn the pages back from modern commercial endeavour to a ceremony that touches the soil and essence of life itself.
To the sound of tambourines and flutes the royal ceremony draws various players to a pegged area of “Sanam Luang” where omens will be interpreted to chart the course of the nation’s economy and wellbeing.


One of the players is a high ranking official of the Ministry of Agriculture dressed in ancient regalia -- a white tunic sparkling with precious stones and wearing on his head a long pointed crown.
Two oxen covered in scarlet and gold cloaks wait to be attached to a plough.
Brahmin guards dressed in green officiate over the first of three important ceremonies.

At the Royal pavilion, three golden Pa Nungs (sarongs) of different length are presented to the Minister. He dons one of them and his choice is considered an omen that gives the Brahmin priest a hint of the year’s prevailing weather and its impact on the harvest.
If the minister chooses the shortest of the Pa Nungs it suggests abundant rain, while the longest hints of drought and hard times. The medium length Pa Nung is considered the most appropriate for the economy. It suggests harmony in nature, perfect conditions for a bumper harvest.

Emerging from the pavilion the Minister is led to the two oxen tethered to the plough. In front of a vast crowd he carefully ploughs three circular furrows to the sound of conch shells and trumpets.
Four maidens carrying baskets with blessed rice, follow the Minister as he begins the ploughing of three more furrows. They sprinkle the rice seeds in the furrows, while Brahmin priest sprinkle lustral water.

As the Minister completes the third furrow the crowds burst through the flimsy barrier to snatch the seeds from the earth. Farmers believe that mixing them with seeds bought from the market will guarantee a handsome harvest.
Finally, the oxen are led to the pavilion where they are offered seven bowls full of rice, corn, millet, beans, grass, rice wine, and water. Their choice is considered a vital omen that will assist the Brahmin priests to divine the year’s outcome for the nation.
If the oxen choose rice, it signals a plentiful harvest. If they ignore the rice it hints of scarcity. If they lower their heads towards the bowls of water, this suggests abundant rain.

Wisely, there is no evidence that the oxen have ever sipped the rice whisky, but on many occasions, the oxen lose their appetites and have to be encouraged to lower their muzzles to the bowls. Once the oxen have made their choice, the Brahmin priest evaluate all the omens, which are then read to the representative of HM the King by a civil servant of the Ministry of Agriculture. As the crowds disappear some will remain to search the earth for a little longer in the hope of finding a blessed rice seed and possibly a promise of a better year to come.